Bethlehem lights up as Christmas spirit returns after two-year war hiatus

Bethlehem (West Bank): Thousands of people gathered at Bethlehem’s Manger Square on Christmas Eve, marking a vibrant return of festive spirit after two years of somber, war-shadowed observances. The iconic giant Christmas tree, absent during the height of the Israel-Hamas war, once again overlooked the square as hundreds of scouts paraded in smart uniforms, playing classic Christmas carols on bagpipes.

For the past two years, the city revered as the birthplace of Jesus had cancelled public festivities, limiting observances to religious rites with minimal decoration. This year, however, marked a shift toward normalcy. Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem, led the traditional procession from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Upon crossing the separation wall, he emphasised the region's desperate need for hope, stating, "After two years of darkness, we need light."

Addressing the diverse crowd of Christians and Muslims in Manger Square, Pizzaballa conveyed greetings from the small Christian community in Gaza, where he had celebrated a pre-Christmas Mass on Sunday. He noted that despite the devastation in the enclave, he witnessed a profound desire for life and rebuilding.

While the holiday cheer returned, the economic scars of the conflict remain deep in the Israeli-occupied West Bank. According to the local government, approximately 80 per cent of Bethlehem's economy relies on tourism. Mayor Maher Nicola Canawati reported that during the war, the city's unemployment rate surged from 14 per cent to 65 per cent. The crowd on Wednesday was predominantly local, with only a handful of international visitors visible.

Georgette Jackaman, a tour guide who has been out of work for more than two years, described the day as a beginning of the return to normal life. For her and her husband Michael, also an unemployed guide, this year offered the first proper Christmas celebration for their two young children. Like many others, the Jackamans had to pivot during the war, creating a website to sell Palestinian handicrafts to support their livelihood.

Despite travel warnings and the volatile situation, some foreigners still made the journey. Mona Riewer, a French physiotherapist, said she visited to better understand the Palestinian experience. She remarked that celebrating in Bethlehem helped her appreciate the true meaning of Christmas as a beacon of hope in vulnerable situations.

The festivities took place against a backdrop of continuing tension. Although a ceasefire began in October, Israeli military raids and settler attacks in the West Bank remain at record highs. The economic hardship has accelerated the emigration of Christians, who now account for less than 2 per cent of the West Bank's 3 million residents.

Movement restrictions also continue to affect daily life. Irene Kirmiz, who travelled from Ramallah, noted that her family waited three hours at Israeli checkpoints for a trip that used to take 40 minutes. Nevertheless, she expressed emotion at seeing the city bounce back. For the first time in two years, the scout bands played music rather than marching in silent protest, a sight that local resident Fadi Zoughbi said brought ecstasy to his children.

Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas was expected to attend the midnight Mass for the first time in two years. While the Ministry of Tourism in Israel estimates significantly lower visitor numbers compared to pre-pandemic levels, residents of Bethlehem are hopeful that the return of lights and music signals a step toward economic recovery and peace.

(Inputs from PTI)